Should I use 20 or 30 developer with bleach on dark hair?
Should I use 20 or 30 developer with bleach on dark hair?
One day last year, my manager told me, “Tomorrow we have to attend a special event.” I was puzzled, as my hair was tangled and dry. I looked at myself in the mirror and thought, “I want my dark hair dazzling blonde for tomorrow’s event. Immediately right after the office, I run to the store and grab a box of bleach. I know I need to use a developer with bleach, but I don’t know which developer would work best with bleach. Two bottles of developers were lying there on store shelves; one says 20 volume, and the other says 30 volume. My brain starts spinning, which is the right one for me.
Should I use 20 volume or 30 volume developer on dark hair?
I did one good thing then; I bought both of the developers’ bottles at home. I called my stylist and asked her whether 20 volume developer works best for me or 30 volume?
Then she advised me to save my hair from getting ruined, as I followed her advice strictly.
In this guide, today I am going to tell the answer to this scary question, “Should I use 20 volume or 30 volume developer with bleach on dark hair?”
Let’s talk about developers. What exactly does a developer do, and why do we need it with Bleach?
A developer is like an “engine” for bleach powder. The developer opens the hair cuticles and breaks the pigments (melanin) so that the bleach penetrates inside them.
There are many developers comes with the number. Think this way: the higher the number, the stronger it is.
- 10 volume developer: Gentle. Mostly use for toning. It can’t lift the color.
- 20 volume developer: Medium strength. Lift the color by 1-2 levels. (can lift dark color to light brown)
- 30 volume developer: Strong. Lift the color by 2-3 levels. (can lift dark color to blonde)
- 40 volume developer: Very strong. Lift color by 3 – 4 levels. (can lift dark color to platinum, or silver)
Now, you understand why they come with numbers.
Now the main question is, “Should I use 20 volume or 30 volume developer on dark hair?”
If you have dark hair, like black or dark brown, and want to go blonde. You need strong developers, like 20, 30, or 40. But as the above suggests, 40 volume is for those who want to have a silver or platinum color. So, you can skip it, and even a 10 volume developer can’t lift any color. So, skip this as well.
However, the question still remains: which developer would be right for my black hair? Either 20 volume or 30 volume.
Let’s break it down as a pro.
You have dark hair, and you want to go blonde. For that reason, you probably need a strong developer, either a 20 volume or a 30 volume.
To get the answer to this question, “Should I use 20 volume or 30 volume developer on dark hair?”
You need to understand your hair health before picking the right one (20 volume and 30 volume)
You must pick a 20 volume developer if:
- Your dark hair is fragile, thin, and damaged.
- You don’t want to take a risk.
- You are planning to bleach your hair again later
My advice for all the beginners: use 20 volume instead of 30 volume. As a 30-volume developer, it can be too strong, or if left for a long time, it can melt your hair. So, go safe with 20 volume.
Pro tip: Use 20 volume developer and do two lightening sessions over three weeks.
You must pick a 30 volume developer if:
- If you have virgin hair (never dyed)
- If you have thick and coarse hair.
- You have already done it before.
- You want blonde color in one go.
30-volume developer is stronger and faster. It opens hair cuticles wider. So, it lifts the color fast, but don’t forget to use it correctly, like leaving it for too long (more than 40 minutes). It can damage your hair too.
My advice is to do a strand test. Clip tiny hair from underneath. Apply it (a mixture of 30 volume and bleach) and see how it goes; proceed only if everything looks fine.
Mistakes you should avoid:
- Don’t use 30 volume developer on previously bleached hair, as it will lead to hair breakage.
- Don’t forget to do a strand test first
- Many women think that more will give better results. Strong volume can damage your hair drastically.
- Don’t rinse with hot water. Always use cold water as hot water opens the hair cuticles and strips the color.
FAQs
- If I want platinum blonde, should I use 20 or 30 volume with bleach on dark hair?
To get platinum blonde, you need to do 2 sessions, first with 30 volume developer and bleach, then wait for 15 days, then a second session with 20 volume developer to clean up unwanted yellow or orange tones.
- Can I mix 30 volume developer with 20 volume to get 25 volume?
Yes. If you mix both equally, then you will get 25 volume. This is an excellent way to get a level between 20 and 30 volume. Many women do so when they are afraid of using a strong 30 volume developer.
- Will my black hair lighten if I use 20 volume developer?
Yes. A 20 volume developer lightens your dark hair up to 1-2 levels; for example, if you have dark brown hair, it will become light brown. But if you want to go from dark brown to blonde, you need to use 30 volume developer.
- How long should I leave the 30 volume developer on dark hair?
Max 45 minutes. Check your hair every 10 minutes. Most dark hair usually lifts within 30 minutes if you use 30 volume. Once you see the result, immediately rinse it.
- What will happen if I use 30 volume developer on my damaged hair by mistake?
Immediately rinse it with cold water, as 30 volume can damage your weak hair badly. Your hair will likely break or look fried. For weak or thin hair, you should use a 20 volume developer.
Conclusion
I know you want to feel amazing with light hair. But before asking this question, “Should I use 20 or 30 volume developer with bleach on dark hair?” You must know about your hair’s health.
If your hair is thick and healthy, you can use 30 volume with bleach. Even then, you need to watch it closely and rinse immediately once you get desire color.
And if your hair is weak and fragile, you should use 20 volume developer instead of 30 volume.
Always take care of your hair health, and whenever you are in doubt. Consult with a stylist or a doctor.